GIVI Magazine - Novembre 2016

East countries tour WE HAVE ASKED EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF SLOVENIAN MOTORCYCLE MAGAZINE MOTOSI TO PRESENT NEXT DOOR EAST EUROPEAN COUNTRIES, OF COURSE WITH EYES OF EXPERT MOTORCYCLIST AND JOURNALIST. WHAT WE HAVE HERE IS INTERESTING STORY FULL OF USEFUL INFORMATION’S. It is fine to know that travelling to east means travelling to less economical strong countries. So be ready to see lower quality of roads and rarely sidewalks for pedestrians. Be prepared to see traffic information’s (about parking, traffic detours etc) in local language only. Be prepared to jump into speed trap if you decide not to respect speed limit signs. Police forces are collecting money, no doubt. But in general police forces are honest and if you start conversation with smile and in friendly manner, then the problem is half solved already. GPS o map? Better remember that asking people for help will make your trip safer and easy. English is widely and well spoken. German is second most useful language. Italian is fine in Adriatic region. SLOVENIA , between Alps and sea Country is only 250 km wide from west to east or north to suth border. But if you decide for Slovenia as your holiday destination, then you should know that touring on bike on regional roads takes definitely more than 1 minute for one kilometer. So expect to travel 1,5 hours for 100 kilometers at least. In general we should know that traffic is dense. Car and van drivers behave slightly aggressive, so expect than drivers do not use turn signals, that keeping safety distance is not real popular knowledge. In congestion hours car drivers do not like to open space for motorcycle. And yes, using mobile phone while driving is forbidden, but highly popular sport. Country is clean, public services are efficient, food and wine is of high quality. If you like to enjoy nice prepared meals, then avoid crowded tourist places and downtown or city centre. Countryside can still offer fresh prepared meals for very affordable price. They open doors in the morning and close in the evening. And kitchen is opened full time. The restaurants are closed for a day or two during the week. While visiting city centers motorcyclist should respect parking rules, too. It is difficult to understand if and where are any parking spaces for motorcycles, so you better ask local drivers if they know the rules. If there are any, then take care to find dedicated parking spaces for motorcycles. Using additional lock for motorcycle is recommended. Not so important in villages. What to see? Maybe is better to split first visit to Slovenia in four areas of interest. 1/ Close to Italian border someone can find beautiful Alpine roads (pass Predil, pass Vršič – 1611 m above sea level) running close to rivers – and Soča was witness of Great War. Paying small fee brings you on Mangart mountain (* 1906 m a.s.l). The road till the parking plateau is narrow but asphalt. Almost vertical view down to Laghi di Fusine is amazing. 2/ Area of Kars (direction from Gorica to Kozina/Koper) is well known for nice twisty roads, small villages, small wine producers, excellent dried pršut (ham). Someone can easily spent whole day on 40 kilometres only trip. Visiting cave Postojna is slightly out of way but interesting and refreshing during hot summer days. 3/ Coastal side cities Koper, Izola, Piran are small, colourful, highly crowded in summer, but extremely interesting to visit in off season. While in this area, then extending visit to Istria is good decision, too. Be ready for short walks. 4/ Ljubljana as capitol city lives new life as tourist attraction, so many tourists are coming today to visit vibrating downtown near river Ljubljanica, all days open green market, Castle on the hill and view over the city. In city centre all motoring traffic is very limited, so finding way straight in and out could be difficult if your GPS device is not refreshed up-to-date. City is celebrating 2000 years of foundation, history started as roman castrum Emona. For motorcyclist of silver age could be of great soul & body benefit to rest & swim in thermal springs. Area from Ptuj to Prekmurje (Murska Sobota) is place to visit and stay for few days. Thermae-hotels are running interesting and affordable programs- offers on web pages, so is worth to check. Autumn is just the best time and late October is still warm enough for traveling on motorcycle. SRBIA (SERBIA), land of tasty food EU free traffic of people and goods somehow stops at Serbian borders. Mainly in summer there could be long, long queues at the border between Croatia and Serbia. But do now worry. Police officers are highly tolerant when motorcyclist bypass that waiting traffic. Just be so kind and keep all papers ready at hand (personal ID document, green card for motorcycle). And yes, after border crossing you should as soon as possible change your money in local dinars, so you can pay highway tool and coffee. Cash machines at petrol stations are handy. But there are many small change shops (Menjačnica) in villages and cities. In September 2016 the rate euro/dinar was around 123 dinars for euro. Here is example of value: bitter lemon soft drink at hotel bar – 1 euro, coffe – 0,3 euro, 0,33 bottle beer in restaurant – 1,2 euro and expect to pay 10 euro per person for very, very good lunch in big cities restaurants. Outside in villages is cheaper. Yes, Serbia is convenient country. Serbia could be called sleeping beauty. Right now is out of tourists mass sight. The difference between west world and Serbia is important. You can see plenty of old, forgotten models of cars. You can not see well known shop chains – discount supermarkets (like Aldi, Spar etc). But, and this is important, all sorts of food, from meat, fruits to vegetables are of local production, great taste and at lower price. Visiting local restaurants is great experience at any time. But if you like to feel real local life, then you should ask for “kafana”, restaurant with live music and grill running in old fashion, on charcoal. Alcohol? Serbian local beers and strong drinks are excellent, but for evening time only. Riding and drinking is to be avoid at any time. What to see? Serbian people are very, very friendly. So following your nose is one good advice. Life in countryside is life from forgotten era so is interesting to see, to stop. And maybe someone back at home will rethink about quality of his personal life. But do you understand Cyrillic alphabet? If you would like to be on safe side, then I recommend to hire a local motorcyclist- guide. Zoran Mihajlović is the best person. He knows all fine local restaurants, he knows how to deal with local people, he is expert motorcyclist. You can contact him on his page SEE MORE PICTURES “cruising.across.serbia”. Well, Belgrade and his evening life is must to see. The road close to Danube river is the best way to say morning halloo to Belgrade and to turn east-south. Aproximately 200 km south from Belgrade you should ask for ethno village Timber Town on Mokra Gora close to city Užice (SW region). It is really worth to see and stay. Town is project of movie actor and filmmaker Emir Kusturica (take note of his recent movie with Monica Bellucci). He is man behind this wooden village which once in the year acts as movie and music festival place, here you can see students of movie arts, too. And if you decide to stay overnight, then your breakfast will be served in restaurant Visconti. When you pay for hotel overnight, take care to save “tourist overnight form registry”. Maybe you will be asked to show this paper while crossing border on your way home. And one remark about roads. Roads net is of good quality of asphalt is in very good condition everywhere in the country. Off road trips to remote places are legal, no problem at all. CROATIA, most beautiful coastal ride Visiting coastal Croatia in peak time of summer is some kind of life mistake. Old cities on Adriatic coast (known as Dalmazia) are not build to absorb huge flow of tourist, so the end result are crowded streets, nervous people, noise, low level of service in restaurants … why not visit this beautiful country in mid april, may, late september or october? Visitor will find complete different scene, relaxed local people, lower price level and empty roads. Jadranska magistrala, old coastal road heading from Rijeka down to Dubrovnik is the most beautiful coastal road … in the world. Forget about Australian Pacific ocean road. At least 500 kilometres is long this stretch of good asphalt belted by high rocks and high mountains on one side and sea with white islands on another side, it is just heaven. Very good idea to enjoy this coastal (s)trip is to combine ferry boats and road. My dream tour start with visit to Opatija (Abbazia, place of great 38 Dossier Est Europa